stilbenes and Hyperpigmentation

Resveratrol is an effective anti-aging molecule with diverse biologic activity. It functions as a dual antioxidant that can neutralize free radicals and increase intrinsic antioxidant capacity. Additionally resveratrol increases mitochondrial biogenesis and has anti-inflammatory, anti-diabetic, and anti-cancer activity. In this paper we will focus on the use of topically applied resveratrol using a proprietary blend containing 1% resveratrol, 0.5% baicalin, and 1% vitamin E. This stabilized high concentration formulation demonstrates percutaneous absorption and alterations in gene expression such as hemoxygenase-1 (HO-1), vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGFA), and collagen 3 (COL3A1). Clinical assessment showed a statistically significant improvement in fine lines and wrinkles, skin firmness, skin elasticity, skin laxity, hyperpigmentation, radiance, and skin roughness over baseline in 12 weeks. Ultrasound measurements in the periorbital area showed an average improvement of 18.9% in dermal thickness suggesting significant dermal remodeling. These studies confirm that topical resveratrol, baicalin, and vitamin E are valuable ingredient that can be used for skin rejuvenation.

Topics: Administration, Cutaneous; Adult; Antioxidants; Cosmetic Techniques; Drug Combinations; Female; Flavonoids; Gene Expression Regulation; Humans; Hyperpigmentation; Middle Aged; Prospective Studies; Rejuvenation; Resveratrol; Skin Absorption; Skin Aging; Stilbenes; Vitamin E

Resveratrol has a variety of bioactivities that include its anti-melanogenic effects, but its use in cosmetics has been challenging partly because of its chemical instability. Resveratryl triacetate (RTA) is a prodrug that can enhance stability. The purpose of this study was to examine the skin safety and whitening effects of RTA in human subjects. The primary skin irritation potentials of RTA and resveratrol were tested at 0.1 and 0.5 % on human subjects. Resveratrol at a concentration of 0.5 % induced weak skin irritation, whereas RTA did not induce any skin responses. The skin-whitening efficacy of a cosmetic formulation containing 0.4 % RTA was evaluated in two different test models. In the artificial tanning model, the test product and the control product were applied twice daily to the skin of the forearms of 22 human subjects after pigmentation induction by ultraviolet irradiation. Applying the test and the control products to the artificial tanning model for 8 weeks increased the individual topology angles (ITA°) by 17.06 and 13.81 %, respectively, a difference that was statistically significant (p < 0.05). In the hyperpigmentation model, the test product and the control product were applied twice daily to the faces of 21 human subjects. The averaged intensity of the hyperpigmented spots decreased by 2.67 % in the test group and 1.46 % in the control group, a difference that was statistically significant (p < 0.05). Therefore, RTA incorporated into cosmetic formulations can whiten human skin without inducing skin irritation.

Topics: Adult; Cosmetics; Female; Humans; Hyperpigmentation; Melanins; Middle Aged; Pigmentation; Prodrugs; Resveratrol; Skin; Skin Lightening Preparations; Stilbenes; Sunbathing; Ultraviolet Rays

Melanin is a natural pigment that plays an important role in the protection of skin, however, hyperpigmentation cause by excessive levels of melatonin is associated with several problems. Therefore, melanogenesis inhibitory natural products have been developed by the cosmetic industry as skin medications. The leaves of Morus alba (Moraceae) have been reported to inhibit melanogenesis, therefore, characterization of the melanogenesis inhibitory constituents of M. alba leaves was attempted in this study. Twenty compounds including eight benzofurans, 10 flavonoids, one stilbenoid and one chalcone were isolated from M. alba leaves and these phenolic constituents were shown to significantly inhibit tyrosinase activity and melanin content in B6F10 melanoma cells. To maximize the melanogenesis inhibitory activity and active phenolic contents, optimized M. alba leave extraction conditions were predicted using response surface methodology as a methanol concentration of 85.2%; an extraction temperature of 53.2 °C and an extraction time of 2 h. The tyrosinase inhibition and total phenolic content under optimal conditions were found to be 74.8% inhibition and 24.8 μg GAE/mg extract, which were well-matched with the predicted values of 75.0% inhibition and 23.8 μg GAE/mg extract. These results shall provide useful information about melanogenesis inhibitory constituents and optimized extracts from M. alba leaves as cosmetic therapeutics to reduce skin hyperpigmentation.

Topics: Benzofurans; Cell Line, Tumor; Chalcone; Flavonoids; Humans; Hyperpigmentation; Melanins; Melanoma; Monophenol Monooxygenase; Morus; Phenols; Plant Extracts; Plant Leaves; Stilbenes

Resveratrol and oxyresveratrol are naturally occurring phenolic compounds with various bioactivities, but their uses in cosmetics have been partly limited by their chemical instabilities. This study was performed to examine the anti-melanogenic effects of the acetylated derivatives from resveratrol and oxyresveratrol. Resveratrol and oxyresveratrol were chemically modified to triacetyl resveratrol and tetraacetyl oxyresveratrol, respectively. The acetylated compounds were less susceptible than the parent compounds to oxidative discoloration. The acetylated compounds inhibited the activities of tyrosinases less than parent compounds in vitro, but they were as effective at cellular melanogenesis inhibition, indicating bioconversion to parent compounds inside cells. Supporting this notion, the parent compounds were regenerated when the acetylated compounds were digested with cell lysates. Although resveratrol and triacetyl resveratrol inhibited tyrosinase activity less effectively than oxyresveratrol and tetraacetyl oxyresveratrol in vitro, they inhibited cellular melanogenesis more effectively. This discrepancy was explained by strong inhibition of tyrosinase expression by resveratrol and triacetyl resveratrol. Experiments using a reconstituted skin model indicated that resveratrol derivatives can affect melanin synthesis and cell viability to different extents. Collectively, this study suggests that acetylated derivatives of resveratrol have great potential as anti-melanogenic agents for cosmetic use in terms of efficacy, safety, and stability.

Topics: Acetylation; Animals; Cell Line, Tumor; Cell Survival; HEK293 Cells; Humans; Hyperpigmentation; Melanins; Melanoma, Experimental; Mice; Models, Biological; Monophenol Monooxygenase; Plant Extracts; Resveratrol; Skin Physiological Phenomena; Skin Pigmentation; Stilbenes; Ultraviolet Rays

Piceid (5,4'-dihydroxystilbene-3-O-β-D-glucopyranoside) is one of the stilbenes found in Polygonum cuspidatum. Previous studies have shown that this compound has little effect on tyrosinase inhibition when compared with other stilbenes in a cell-free tyrosinase assay. Furthermore, its role for melanogenesis in melanocytes is relatively unknown. In melanocytes, piceid inhibits tyrosinase activity and melanin production in a concentration-dependent manner. To explore the action of piceid on melanogenesis, we studied its effect on several key cellular enzymes and a transcriptional factor known to be involved in melanogenesis, including: tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1, tyrosinase-related protein 2, and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor. Interestingly, the effects of piceid on hypopigmentation and inhibition of tyrosinase activity were better than those of arbutin, which is well known to inhibit melanin formation in melanocytes. In addition, piceid suppressed the mRNA and protein expression of the aforementioned enzymes and transcriptional factor in a concentration-dependent manner. In this regards, our results showed that piceid represents a safe and new candidate for a skin-lightening agent.

Topics: Animals; Cell Line; Cell Proliferation; Down-Regulation; Fallopia japonica; Glucosides; Hyperpigmentation; Intramolecular Oxidoreductases; Magnetic Resonance Spectroscopy; Melanins; Melanocytes; Membrane Glycoproteins; Mice; Microphthalmia-Associated Transcription Factor; Molecular Structure; Monophenol Monooxygenase; Osmolar Concentration; Oxidoreductases; Plant Roots; RNA, Messenger; Spectrometry, Mass, Fast Atom Bombardment; Stilbenes