sodium-dodecyl-sulfate and glycolic-acid

Alpha hydroxyacids (AHAs) are used to enhance stratum corneum desquamation and improve skin appearance. The purpose of this study was to evaluate whether some AHAs improve skin barrier function and prevent skin irritation. Eleven healthy subjects (aged 28 +/- 6 years, mean +/- SD) entered the study. Six test sites of 8 x 5 cm (four different AHAs, vehicle only (VE) and untreated control (UNT) were selected and randomly rotated on the volar arm and forearm. The four different AHAs at 8% concentration in base cream were glycolic acid (GA), lactic acid, tartaric acid (TA) and gluconolactone (GLU). The products were applied twice a day for 4 weeks (2 mg/cm2). At week 4, a 5% sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) challenge patch test was performed under occlusion for 6 h (HillTop chamber, 18 mm wide) on each site. Barrier function and skin irritation were evaluated by means of evaporimetry (Servomed EP-1) and chromametry (a* value, Minolta CR200) weekly, and at 0, 24 and 48 h after SLS patch removal. No significant differences in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and erythema were observed between the four AHAs at week 4. After SLS challenge, GLU- and TA-treated sites resulted in significantly lower TEWL compared with VE, UNT (P < 0.01) and GA (P < 0.05) both at 24 and 48 h. Similarly, a* values were significantly reduced after irritation in GLU- and TA-treated sites. This study shows that AHAs can modulate stratum corneum barrier function and prevent skin irritation; the effect is not equal for all AHAs, being more marked for the molecules characterized by antioxidant properties.

Topics: Adult; Dermatitis, Contact; Double-Blind Method; Epidermis; Gluconates; Glycolates; Humans; Hydroxy Acids; Lactic Acid; Lactones; Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate; Tartrates; Water Loss, Insensible

The percutaneous penetration-enhancing effects of glycolic acid, lactic acid and sodium lauryl sulphate through the human epidermis was investigated using 5-fluorouracil as a hydrophilic model permeant and three compounds belonging to the phenylalcohols: 2-phenyl-ethanol, 4-phenyl-butanol and 5-phenyl-pentanol. The lipophilicity values of the compounds ranged from log Poct -0.95 to 2.89. The effect of the enhancer concentration was also studied. Skin pretreatment with aqueous solutions of the three enhancers did not increase the permeability coefficient of the most lipophilic compound (log Poct = 2.89). For the other compounds assayed, the increase in the permeability coefficients depended on the concentration used in skin pretreatment, and on the lipophilicity of the compounds tested-and was always greater for the most hydrophilic compound (5-fluorouracil), for which lactic acid exerted a greater enhancer effect than glycolic acid or sodium lauryl sulphate. Primary irritation testing of the three enhancers was also carried out at the two concentrations used in skin pretreatment for diffusional experiments (1% and 5%, w/w). The least irritant capacity corresponded to lactic acid; consequently, this alpha-hydroxyacid could be proposed as a percutaneous penetration enhancer for hydrophilic molecules that are of interest for transdermal administration.

Topics: Adult; Alcohols; Butanols; Epidermis; Female; Fluorouracil; Glycolates; Humans; Hydroxy Acids; In Vitro Techniques; Lactic Acid; Pentanols; Permeability; Phenylethyl Alcohol; Skin; Skin Absorption; Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate